1996 CR250 Rebuild – Vintage Bike Restoration Tips & Tricks

Jay Clark’s 1996 CR250 Resto

Story and Photos by Trevor Hunter

Another work of art out of the Dirt Bike TV garage.

Its safe to say nobody in the industry builds as many bikes as Jay Clark does each year — not to mention the variety of bikes that come to life in his garage. From old-school two-strokes, to the most tricked out modern four-stroke you can build, Jay builds it all. He recently brought out this stunner of a bike, a 1996 Honda CR250, to take some photos of, drool over, and hear it sing as he warmed it up on the stand. Unfortuntely, we couldn’t do what we do best and swing a leg over it, but we were able to walk away with a little info on this bike in particular and get some tips and tricks from the pro’s pro himself on restoring older bikes where parts may be discontinued and scarce.

 

Beautiful.
DBT 1996 CR250R #120
For those that have been following  DirtBikeTV for a while know that Jay Clark has gone “all-in” with five steel frame CR250R builds. These bikes were all obtained in various degrees of junkiness. Each bike has been taken down to the frame, welded, and powder coated. The engines taken down welded, blasted, modified and assembled back to better than new condition.  All have the 38mm 1996 Keihin carburetors installed with specs from TMR to go with his cylinder porting & head mods.  Race Tech tackled the mess of old suspension work. Why did Jay build five of these CR’s? His answer is that six is just too many. Even though we were not able to spin laps on the incredible machine it was fun to check out what can be done with these beloved CR250R’s.  Here is Jay’s “Black Night” version. For most guys the financial feasibility on these projects can be questionable.  Jay estimates that spending $3000-$6000 to fix up a bike this is not at all out of the question.  Much of that depends on the hard to find pieces and if cases, cylinders and suspension do not require big money to repair or replace.  For this reason Jay recommends to really know what you are getting into when you take on a build like this.   There are many parts still available you can see in the detailed parts list but many that are not.

Attention to detail is apparent with Jay’s builds.

What are the hardest parts to fix/track down on vintage bike builds?

When you are dealing with nearly 30 year old bikes there are many challenges when trying to make a bike as good as it once was and Jay feels that these 1995/96 bikes were not really made to be ridden hard for 30 years. Many parts wear out and we will discuss those.

Engines — Transmissions are important and the problem is that there are basically no OEM quality replacement pieces that are commonly worn out available for these older bikes. Searching online for used is about the only solution and that is a risk of finding pieces that are not much, if any, better than what you have. Jay said it took eight lower ends to make the five complete.

Engine Center Cases – Cases are often damaged beyond repair.  This is usually from piston or crank failures (guys running their Honda into the ground until it breaks). When it does break, it can be catastrophic. Drain bolts and chain guide areas can also be damaged. Jay was able to get a repair and weld up nearly every case, with three thrown into the recycle bin in the end. Of course you can’t buy new OEM cases still.

Cylinders — These cylinders have long been unavailable from Honda. Jay does prefer to use the stock cylinder replated by Millennium rather than a sleeve.   Jay had 3-4 extra sleeved or otherwise unusable cylinders left over.

Crankshaft— There are some after market full cranks available. Jay prefers to find good usable cores and rebuild the cranks with the ProX rod kit that is as close to OEM as you can get from Japan. We’ve tested ProX rods recently and have seen excellent durability out of them, matching OEM lifespan on bikes that are ridden hard.

Suspension — This is an area that is commonly overlooked by the beginner project bike builder. Many older bikes did not have fresh oil changes regularly and thus the components can be worn out, not salvageable, or in need of hard anodize. In Jay’s case, he needed both. It took ten sets of used suspension to make the finished five sets that Race Tech completed with all needing Hard Anodize to repair the internal diameters. Many shock shafts are ruined as well.

Air Boots from the air box to the carb are not available and these have proven hard to find for a reasonable price. Jay bought his last two in good shape for the bikes off of ebay. The intake boot from the reeds to the carb are long unavailable and Jay was in good shape to salvage the stock ones with the V-Force reed cage. If you can’t find one, you could run a Boyesen reed cage and get the intake included.

Kick Starter levers are no longer available and nearly every one is so clapped out it will rattle on the pipe. Ebay does have new ones listed in the $60 range that work well and of the six jay bought, only one of them didn’t line up correctly. Radiators are hard to find in good shape and most aftermarket do not fit well. Jay likes to use the stock rads straightened up by ICW.

What parts are commonly difficult to obtain when rebuilding older bikes like this?

Rubber parts, cases, and suspension — all listed above.

What parts or aspects of the bike do you recommend everyone replaces or carefully inspects when rebuilding an order bike? 

All Bearings and seals should be replaced on the engine, suspension and chassis. Swing arm, linkage and steering bearings will almost certainly all need attention.

When rebuilding older bikes, what do you feel is the most important to change or modify (ie. Suspension, motor, ergos, etc)

Jay feels keeping it simple is most important on these older builds. Jay preaches that no matter what you do to the engine or suspension, it will not be “as good” as current bike. Keep it as simple and cheap as you can since you will not be lining up to race A1 with these bikes. And as we just proved with our Big Bear Run Torture Test, the rider makes way more of a difference than a bike ever will.

Since Jay has along time relationship with TMR -Tom Morgan he insisted him to help set up each cylinder/head. Surprisingly, most of the stock electronics are really durable with the stock coil, stator and CDI all being utilized after vapor honing.

Of all the older builds you’ve done, what bikes were the easiest to build and get parts for and what were some of the hardest? 

Jay thinks that the Yamaha bikes as a whole tend to be a bit easier to find OEM parts for.

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Wiseco Performance Products                 
Pro-Lite Piston Kit
CV4 Hi-Temp Rad Cap
Rekluse            
Core Manual TorqueDrive
Clutch Basket, Inner hub, Pressure Plate
Clutch Cover
Pro X Racing Parts  
Connecting Rod Rebuild kit
Main bearings & Crank seals
Cranks seals
Carb rebuild kit
Clutch cable
Steering bearing kit
Front brake caliper rebuild kit
Rear brake caliper kit
Front master cylinder rebuild kit
Rear master cylinder rebuild kit
Front sprocket
Rear sprocket alloy
MX Chain gold
Counter shaft seal kit
Upper & lower chain roller
Swing arm bearing kit
Swing arm linkage bearing kit
Front and Rear rotor
Brake pads front and rear
TMR          
Cylinder porting
Head Mod
Carburetor Slide mod & Jetting
Millennium Tech 
www.mt-llc.com
Strip, re-pair damage & re-plate to stock size
Cometic Gasket
Engine gaskets
Langston Performance/Andrew Langston 
Crankshaft rebuild with ProX rod kit
FMF Racing                              
Gnarly exhaust (stripped and factory treated from Robbies)
Shorty Silencer (Powercore Modified into a Shorty)
Dunlop Tire
MX34 Front
MX33 Rear
Race Tech
Suspension Re-Valve and set up
Hard Anodize of forks and shock body
Parapros Brad 
Engine Rebuild
Carburetor Rebuild
Wheel Build/assy
Clarke Manufacturing 
OEM style/sized Fuel Tank
ICW    
Radiator straightening & bracing
Uni Filter
Two-stage Air Filter
DeCal Works                                     
Semi-Custom Graphics kit
Preprinted number plates backgrounds
Sano Metal Finishing
Vapor Honing
Sand Blasting
Custom Cerakoting
MX Plastics  
Full plastic kit
Mud Flap
Works Connection
Hour Meter
Stand
Front Brake Rotating bar mount
Brake Reservoir cap
Elite Clutch Perch Assy
Oil Filler plug
Stem Nut
MotoTassinari    
V-Force Reed Cage
ODI 
Emig V2 Lock On Grips
7/8 Bars
Galfer USA 
Brake line rear
Brake line front
Specbolt Fasteners
Nickel Engine & Plastic complete bolt kit
Rear sprocket bolt kit
San Diego Powder Coating       
Sandblasting, powder with super-durable clear, and “race prep masking’
VP Fuel 
C12 Fuel
Nacstar USA
Black Rims
Tusk Off road
Front & Rear Spoke kit
Kill Switch
Tusk Shifter

 

SpD Factory Development 
Radiator Hoses
Radiator hose clamps
Chain Blocks
FootPeg Pins
IMS
Super Stock Foot Pegs
Fasst Co 
Rear Brake Return Spring
Rear Brake Clevis
Klotz Synthetic Lubricants
R-50 Two-Stroke Pre-Mix & Chemicals
AK Technologies 
3D printed Radiator Louvers
Motion Pro 
Rim Locks
Turbo SE Throttle Housing & Cable
RM Stator 
Stator
Coil
Carbon Solutions 
Custom 3D printed in-frame cable holder
Enduro Engineering 
Rear Brake Pedal Tip
Moto Seat                                 
Seat Foam
Custom Seat Cover
Robby’s Pipe Repair 
Strip, Buff, Factory look FMF pipe
Shorten PowerCore FMF into a Shorty

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